Post by rayboycePost by MouldytoneThe Cedar oil link is appreciated but the worry I have is does it
actually kill the mildew/mould spores? From what I`ve been able to
find out about mildew it appears that it has to be stopped/removed if
you want to prevent any future problems/smell. I don`t want to replace
a mildew smell with a cedar smell, I want to get rid of the source of
the smell. Thanks for the suggestions. I`m leaning toward the ozium
suggestion at the moment. If I can track it down in Aus.
Tony Moulder
Tony,
Good luck. Let us know.
I'm sure you could find ozium e-order/mail order if nothing else. It's an
effective product, when used as intended, and packaged small and it would
ship cheaply. It neutralizes, doesn't mask. It's a glycolized product
and I've known several applications where it worked well... But from using
it in evacuated rental-houses and elsewhere, it's designed and marketed
only as a temporary neutralizer for AIR sanitizing, airborne bacteria, and
I can tell you from experience, it must be resprayed after a few hours.
They even package it for metered dispensers. If the odor source still
resides on surfaces, you must treat those separately. (I usually bleach
those afterwards in my rentals.)
http://www.brucemedical.com/ozspraydeod.html
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=ozium&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=4643229027&ref=pd_sl_5b3feg1rs2_b
Concerning C-oil, haven't ever tried it "after-the-fact", but it's
designed as a restorer, and yes there are several manufacturer's claims
certain mixes as effective penetrant to kill molds, as a "green"
substitute where bleach would otherwise be used. Mold and fungii
resistance are also reasons for usages of cedar wood itself unpainted as
an exterior wood product, along with it's resistance to bugs and rot.
C-oil is also considered a green solution. Plus, it's available in
various levels of aromatic residual forms. Aromatic C-oil smells nice,
like a natural wood. Used conservatively, I'm pretty sure it would not be
sharply discernable from other sweet-woods, like true rosewoods, which
were named for their smell.
http://mylandscapeisgreen.com/products/cedarmountainairsystem.html
http://old.cedarcide.com/pr11.pdf
http://www.cedarbugfree.com/
I'd feel safer with a careful, VERY conservatively applied wood bi-product
for any of my wood. I wouldn't coat it. I would tend to mist it or
something... and not repeatedly. Wood still needs to breath, needs
moisture that's feeding the mold now on your guitar.
YMMV, and again, I hope you find what works best for you, and interested
to hear.
~ray
guitar, that should kill any surface mold. Un-string the guitar, of course,
warp the body from string tension. Some moisture is needed (high humidity)
to activate the spores and make them more easy to kill.
Chlorine bleach, to allow the fumes to kill things. I suppose one could wet
plastic bag and let it sit for a few days. Don't get bleach directly on the
wood or it will be bleached there.
Good luck Tony.